Bhubaneswar,
the capital of Orissa, is
also popularly known as the "Temple City of India". Being
the seat of
Tribhubaneswar or 'Lord Lingaraj', Bhubaneswar is an important Hindu
pilgrimage centre. Hundreds of temples dot the landscape of the Old
Town, which once boasted of more than 2000 temples. Bhubaneswar is the
place where temple building activities of Orissan style flowered
from
its very inception to its fullest culmination extending over a period
of over one thousand years.
The
Parsurameswara (c. 650 AD) is the earliest temple still standing in
Bhubaneswar. The mid-seventh century date agreed on by most scholars is
based on style, as well as on the eight planets which appear over the
door to the inner sanctum. In later temples, there are nine. Although
the Parsurameswara temple was repaired in 1903, with some ensuing
changes in the roof of the inner sanctum, the structure is
substantially intact in its original form. This small temple shows the
early stages of development of the two main Orissan temple components:
the beehive-shaped tower (generally referred to as the deul ) and the
porch in front of the tower (generally called the Jagamohan).
The small
and elegant Mukteswara temple
(c. AD 950) i
s often
referred to as the "miniature gem of Orissan architecture". The
frequency with which the term 'gem' is employed will be immediately
appreciated with the very first glimpse of this delicate, refined
little structure.
In addition to its beauty, the Mukteswara is important as a transition
point between the early and later phases of the Kalinga school of
temple architecture. The builder has successfully combined many
elements of the old with new designs and conceptions. Many of the
innovations took root, and became essential features of all later
temples. Because of this, one scholar has described the Mukteswara as
"harbinger of the new culture".
The great Lingaraja Temple
(eleventh
century), which soars above the
city of Bhubaneswar and
dominates the landscape as far
as 15 kms away,
represents Orissan temple architecture at its most mature and fully
developed stage. It has, in fact, been described as 'time quintessence
of Orissan architecture'.
Although the temple as it
now exists can be dated to the eleventh century, Sanskrit texts hold
that there was a stone temple here as early as the seventh century AD,
and fragments of this earlier structure do seem to appear in the extant
building.
Unlike most of the other important temples in Bhubaneswar, the
Lingaraja is very much in active worship, and entrance to the temple
compound is prohibited to non-Hindus. There is a viewing platform
to one side, however, from which a good look at the compound and the
main buildings can be had.
The deul (tower) of the Lingaraja reaches
a height of just over 180 feet (55 meters). It is completely
curvilinear, and the extraordinary soaring tower can be seen to
incorporate miniature replicas of itself, in turrets inserted on the
ribs of the spire. In addition to the deul and the jagmohana (porch),
the Lingaraja adds two new structures: the natamandira (hall of dance)
and the bhoga-mandapa
(hall of offering). The
former was undoubtedly
associated with the rising prominence of the devadasi system. Many of
the sculptures on the temple itself represent groups of people engaged
in various religious and musical activities, and these perhaps relate
to the increasing range of
activities carried out at the
temple, for
instance in the two new structures.
By the time the Lingaraja temple was constructed, the Jagannath cult
had become predominant throughout Orissa. This is
reflected in
the fact that the temple deity here, the Svayambhu linga, is not, as in
all other cases, strictly a Shiva linga. It is considered to be a
'hari-hara' linga, that is, half Shiva, half Vishnu. This and the
variety of deities represented elsewhere on the temple, once again
point out the basically syncretic nature of so much of Orissan religion.
There are 150 subsidiary shrines within the immense Lingaraja
complex, many of them extremely interesting in their own right.
Unfortunately, they cannot be visited by non-Hindus.
The new Bhubaneswar with its modern buildings and extensive
infrastructure perfectly complements its historic surroundings. With
facilities to cater to every type of visitor, Bhubaneswar makes an
ideal tourist destination.
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